A Hackney business is giving textiles and furniture a new lease of life through embracing the concept of upcycling.
U.b. London was started by Brigitta Roselli as a project to upcycle rather than recycle items, with sustainability at the heart of her work.
Her eagerness to take items which would otherwise be disposed of and give them a new form, thereby increasing their value, was the inspiration behind her work.
Roselli said: “I call recycling down-cycling.
“What we need is up-cycling, thanks to which old products are given a higher, not a lower, value.”
The concept of recycling has been long known in contemporary society, but upcycling is a phenomenon which has grown over the past four years since the Covid-19 pandemic, especially in the fashion industry.
Many vintage or dead-stock items can be repurposed to become fashionable items, although its origin dates back to the early 1940s when clothing was rationed in Britain during the Second World War.
With available supplies used in the production of military uniforms, a ‘Make Do and Mend’ campaign was launched to encourage citizens to make clothing supplies last longer.
People were forced to recycle to clothe their family and advice was dispensed on how to make clothes last longer, how to wash them, how to prevent moth damage to wool materials, and how to store shoes.
The ability to repair, recycle, and make clothes from scratch became increasingly important, particularly as so scarce that people had to resort to using curtains and tablecloths to make clothes.
Reusing wartime items such as blackout material, and parachute silk for underwear, nightgowns, and wedding dresses, was also popular
Upcycling re-emerged in the late 1980s and early 1990s when the UK faced a major recession and teenagers, who were passionate about the fashion industry, wanted to express their identity by customising clothes which had been passed down from older relatives.
Roselli said: “It has always existed, but today it has its own name and little by little it will have more and more relevance.
“Upcycling products are not just a re-visitation of something that already exists and is then reworked and improved upon.
“But, rather, it is a consciousness of what already exists and can be transformed into something better and unique, that, once purchased, belongs only to you.”
In the 21st century, embracing upcycling is increasingly seen an ethical choice due to concerns from consumers over the environmental impact of fast-fashion culture.
There is a greater focus on unisex fashion too as increasingly clothes can be easily upcycled from menswear to womenswear and vice versa.
Upcycling is not without its challenges, though, particularly when it comes to repurposing damaged or discarded materials.
Roselli said: “The biggest challenges are when the material is really damaged and the only way is to export it and know how to reuse the little part that remains, always considering its future use.
“Also, some pieces are often discarded, and the fun part is to give them a new function, such as the soles of shoes that are often unused or thrown away.
“But I finally found a solution considering the shape and where it could be re-adapted.”
Along with her own passion for giving fashion items and furniture a new lease of life from her east London base, Roselli is keen to encourage others to embrace upcycling as well.
She said: “The best tip I can give is make this your mission and surely, your purpose and your passion will reach the people much better.”
Picture credits: Used from U.b. London Instagram page with permission
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